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Is Linen suitable
for office?
It is the perfect summer fabric, worn best with nary a care about wrinkling
in keeping with the ease of summer style. Pair a linen trouser with a
classic stripe shirt. The look is timeless and elegant, whether worn as a
complete suite blazer in neutral shades of cream, navy, ivory or tan. A
light pressing after each wearing is in order when it comes to a business,
for while we appreciate a stylish wrinkling or two, the neater look is
always more appropriate for the office.
2. Should I wear a striped tie with a striped
shirt?
For narrower striped shirt choose a striped tie equally narrower in its
stripe spacing for proper pattern balance. Fr bolder wider shirt stripes opt
for a tie with stripes even more widely spaced then those in the shirt
pattern. Single, collar and thickly banded regimentals work well here.
3. What is a trouser "break"?
The "break" in one's trousers is the amount of fabric that rests over the
instep of one's shoes. Traditionally, trouser breaks may be a quarter, half
or full inch although a full break can often create an impression of
droopiness. The shoes you wear with a certain pair of trousers will
sometimes determine the type of break required. For example, heavy-soled,
chunky or bulbous toe shoes require a longer break than narrow, streamlined
loafers.
4. What is the "rise" on pants?
The rise is the measured distance between the top of a trouser leg's inseam
to the top of a trouser's waistband. Suit and dress trousers have a slightly
higher rise than caused pants, which means the waistband sits at the waist,
providing an elegant and flattering silhouette for most men. Your waist , by
the way, is just below your navel, not below your belly where many younger
men, used to a life in jeans, usually think it is. Speaking of jeans,
jean-constructed pants tend to have a lower rise, thus sitting closer to the
hips where they allow the wearer greater ease of movement. That's a remnant
from denim's days as a work wear garment.
5. Do you recommended flat-front or pleated
trousers?
Though the late nineties saw pleats all but disappear from pants the way
they did during the WWII when fabric rationing demanded it, the forgiving
folds are now back-you once again have a difficult choice.
As a rule, flat-front pants have a sleeker, cleaner silhouette, but this
means they conceal no flaws. If you have a little extra up front, pleats
will ensure that the pants fall straight down, instead of hugging your
stomach unflatteringly. Just make sure there are two pleats-the smaller one
on the outside will take the heat of the larger, front pleat which should
remain flat and closed. When pleats pucker open, you're too big for your
britches. (Or, if you prefer, they're too small for you). At that point,
rather than disguising any girth you're trying to hide, the pleats are
accentuating it. Try moving up a waist side, because even the best made
clothes need to fit well to flatter you.
On last thing: generally you want your pleated pants cuffed. That doubled
material at the bottom of the leg provides the extra weight that'll always
ensure your pleats hang straight down.
6. I can't decide between a two and three button
suit. Any suggestions?
Why not own both? While two-button suits have been a favorite with
traditionalists for many years, the new, younger looking three-button suits
have become increasingly popular in recent seasons. While the longer
silhouette of the three-button model does tend to look better on taller or
leaner men, it doesn't mean shorter or larger men can't wear it well.
Generally speaking, the two-button model is much more comfortable and
forgiving on the man who has a fuller chest. But if tailored to fit
correctly, the larger man can easily wear a three-button suit with style and
poise - specially the classic.
7. How do I choose the right shirt collar?
It's important to choose the right collar for your face. The straight collar
works with most shapes, but it flatters a rounder face best. The collar's
roll on the all-American button-down accentuates the curves of a face, so
choose a generous roll if your face is long, a smaller one if it's round.
The spread collar's wider spread also flatters many face, just remember to
pair it with a bulkier four-in-hand or half-Windsor tie. Finally, the
cutaway collar, with its widest spread, suits men with neither a too wide a
face and is best finished with a full-Windsor knot.
8. How much shirt cuff should stick out from my
jacket sleeve?
About half an inch of shirt should be visible. The visible cuff does not
make the sleeve look too short. The visible cuff makes the arm look longer.
It is the only correct way to dress your wrists, regardless of one's
personal hang-ups or feelings. And if you don't believe us, you only have to
check out any well-dressed man you see. |